I think I’ve had a taste of heaven, and it tastes like Soy Ramen…

Ramen is, depending on where you look, a typical Japanese dish that originated in Japan or was imported from China a few centuries ago. Regardless, it’s now as Japanase as sushi in many ways and for many people. Since being in Japan I’ve tasted a few, but then I stumbled upon this little place next to Hibarigaoka school and discovered something much more serious…

This ramen shop is only open about 5 hours a day, and no matter what time you walk past there is alway a queue of at least ten people waiting to get in. The place itself is tiny, and probably sits about ten people max. The noodles are hand made during the day, and the ramen is out of this world. Like a lot of traditional, and good, spots in Tokyo it is devoid of the superflous service warmth you find in most Japanese stores and restaurants.

There is no paying counter, just a coin machine in the corner which you use to place your order. There is no overbearing shouts of Hirashaimasse when you come in… just good, honest and damn tasty food. The only sounds you can hear at most times are the slurps from the customers hungrily munching their bowl of ramen and the occasional ‘Do you want garlic with this?’ and ‘Thanks!’ from the cook.

The counter corners the kitchen where you can see the man in action - frantically moving between a giant pot of pork broth (made from fat and bones cooked for hours), stacks of pork joints, a noodle pot and pots of cabbage and beans, garlic, pork fat and soya sauce. The only other person in the kitchen is the helper (I guess that would make him a sous-chef in most places, he he) who handles the cooking of the cabbage and cleaning up of plates and glasses.
Watching the man cook and prepare bowl after bowl of ramen for hours (up to 3 hours non stop in the evening) is quite impressive and hypnotic. And continuously with a smile on his face too.

The food itself is pretty simple - but then a lot of the best things in life are simple. Depending on which you go for, you get a bowl of pork broth (or soy sauce pork broth), thick cut slices of pork, a mound of cabbage and beans and some freshly chopped garlic. And the word portion takes its true meaning in this spot, with the smallest portion being enough to satiate big appetites. I can munch if I may say so myself, and I struggle to even get through a normal portion. I don’t want to consider what a big portion might do to me…

The noodles are the best part - especially compared to the ones that use more run of the mill noodles. They are so tasty and remind me a lot of my grandma’s hand made pasta. After all there isn’t much difference.
I keep going back there - not just for the food, which is amazing especially if you like ramen, but because it’s a really surreal place. Especially for a foreigner like me who’s just landed in Tokyo recently. The quietness of it, especially from the people who work there, is refreshing and the fact that they have welcomed me there even after they were closed and have kept answering all my little questions about what they do is fast making this my favourite spot in town when it comes to eating out.

If you want to know more about Ramen you can check this wikipedia Ramen page - apparently there are four main types of Ramen in Japan. Soy ramen, Broth ramen, Miso Soup ramen and Salt ramen. Having found a place that does two of them exceedingly well, I’m on the case to find a spot that does the other two. And then probably continue to look for different types!

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written by Laurent