Jun 25

Hanoi Lake

I made it to Hanoi early yesterday morning after a 2 day train ride through China and the northern border between it and Vietnam.

The train ride itself was a lot nicer than I’d hoped. The train was comfortable, safe and reliable. Buying the tickets in Beijing wasn’t as tricky as I’d feared and overall it was an amazing journey, giving me a glimpse into China, even though I didn’t stop anywhere along the way. Just looking out of the window was enough to get a sense for the country - field upon fields of rice paddies interrupted by big cities, all concrete tower blocks, dust and factories. At times in the distance you’d see factories pumping out smoke, and as we got further south, jagged rocks and small mountains started to crop up, like those you see on the South East Asian coast, but strangely enough, these were all inland, a weird and fascinating sight. Amidst the fields the sights of people in traditional hats sowing seeds and picking up rice alongside ox pulling carts was a strange - a typical cliche, postcard picture but yet one that is still very true for a lot of rural China.

The cities were also pretty interesting. Having left Beijing’s oppressing pollution and strange architecture, it was actually pretty much more of the same. The influence and power of China’s communist past obviously stretching in all directions, which when you consider the size of the country is a pretty impressive feat. Most of the cities were all concrete tower blocks, dust and busy streets. Very grey, a feeling only made worse by the cloudy sky and huge amounts of smoke emanating from factories both on the outskirts of big cities and randomly found across the countryside.

Arriving in Hanoi, the feeling of chaos and noise I’d felt in Beijing only continued, and much to my surprise turned out to be a lot worse. Though that isn’t necessarily a bad thing. As I’m realising now one week into a month in South East Asia, once you let the chaos just flow around you and learn to walk through it rather than be stunned and scared by it, it’s really not that bad at all. I think more than anything, my time in Japan really made me forget how life in a big city can really be, and this sensation of chaos is only amplified by the relative calm and order I came to learn to live with while in Tokyo. And when I say that, it’s not that Tokyo doesn’t have its own chaos, but it really is a lot more ordered and contained  than anything I’ve seen on the Asian continent so far.

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Aug 10

I mean seriously… this kind of heat isn’t normal… global warming for the win

Apparently this the hottest summer for a long time, yesterday rocking up to 40 degrees!

It’s so hot that:

- My laundry is dry within 20 minutes of being hung outside
- I’m seriously contemplating not leaving my flat and the god sent air conditioning for the next 8 days of my holiday
- I don’t open the curtains during the anymore - darkness!
- I sleep hugging the air con remote control
- I was sweating and panting at 11.45pm last night whilst cycling back wearing sandals, shorts and a basketball top - I mean seriously come on
- I actually enjoy taking freezing cold showers

The world is truly messed up…

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Aug 05

Summertime

Ok so I’ve gone from spending the month of June refusing to turn my air con on in an attempt to prove to myself that I could cope with the supposed heat of the Japanese summer, only to find out that the worst was yet to come and that I really can’t deal with heat and humidity combined in great amounts. I returned from our holiday in Izu at the end of June and promptly wacked the air con on after my room had turned into some sort of personalised, and well equipped, sauna. And I haven’t turned it off since…

Not even during the much delayed rainy season which lasted pretty much all of July and was supposed to cool us down a bit (or so I was led to believe). Being drenched wet in 30 degree heat definitely isn’t my idea of fun. Nor is having to walk in horizontal rain whilst on the way to work dressed in work clothes and subsequently having to go to the convini to buy socks so I could teach for the day (though actually that last part was pretty enjoyable - after bitching for 10 minutes the thought did cross my mind that they’ll probably sell socks in there, and lo and behold they did. I do love this country).

And now August has rolled up and the heat has settled properly it seems - as Fushimi warned me a month or so ago. And fudge me it’s hot. I mean really hot. And humid, unbereably humid. It’s just so oppressive. I have a tendency to never be truly happy, and always moan if it’s cold, hot or whatever, but right now this is beyond the joke. The heat is truly on a scale I’ve never experienced before, and I’ve spent summers in some of the hottest parts of Europe - where nothing moves for five/six hours past lunchtime due to the heat.

I’m definitely glad for the overabundance of air conditioners in Tokyo - though it does take some getting used to, walking from oppressive heat into cool (or downright cold) rooms/shops/trains and back out again. Repeat all day long until you either catch a cold, a sore throat, runny nose etc… I rocked a cold for most of July, and am now pleasantly enjoying having an on/off dry throat and being unable to find the ‘right temperature’ inside that won’t leave me feeling a little too cold or too hot.

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